Time Out New York
Harlem gains an ambitious French bistro from Daniel alums Jerome Bougherdani and chef Matthew Tivy. The 60-seat space, with its globe lights and powder-blue banquettes, evokes a classic bistro, while dishes from the Lyon, France-born executive chef, Thomas Obaton, range from the traditional (beef bourguignonne) to the bold (calf’s-foot croquettes).
The Daily Obsession
My perfect weekend consists of sleeping late then catching up with friends over a leisurely restaurant brunch. I was lucky enough to experience just that at the new Chez Lucienne, a French bistro, in the heart of Harlem. TDO editor, Carolyn, and I convened at noon for two full hours of fine food, fine service, and fine company. Head chef, Thomas Obaton, from Lyon, France serves up a delightfully traditional French menu at this charming eatery. Carolyn and I came on an empty stomach so as to better test out the menu. Perhaps we went a little overboard ordering drinks, plate to share, and individual entrees but we couldn’t resist (That’s how good the food is). But then again, the restaurant does offer up both a brunch appetizer menu in addition to the main menu!
We split the French Toast aux Fruits Frais which was absolutely mouth watering. Light and fluffy bread topped with whipped cream and maple syrup, then garnished with fresh fruit, this dish is good enough to order for just yourself. Though it was a toss-up, I decided the Crêpes aux Montrachet as my main course. This classic French favorite is filled with sautéed spinach, goat cheese, and wild mushrooms with roasted peppers on the side. The blend of fresh and distinct flavors creates the perfect crisp but hearty brunch dish. I must confess, I was tempted to order seconds right there on the spot!
Carolyn had the Salade Niçoise Classique and said it tasted healthy AND good, so much for the myth that you can’t eat light and eat well. Aside from the great brunch food, the staff at Chez Lucienne was very friendly and attentive, always a major plus. The outdoor seating put you right on the sidewalk, perfect for ADD eaters like myself who enjoy a little neighborhoody scenery during their feasting time. For me, Chez Lucienne offered more than just a great meal, it also gave me a reason to get out of downtown Manhattan and an eating scene I know too well, to venture uptown to a neighborhood with a fun albeit different vibe (before Sunday I had only been to Harlem a few times and never to eat). I highly recommend Chez Lucienne to anyone looking for simple and delicious French favorites at very reasonable prices in a different setting than the norm. I look forward to hopping on the 2 train again to try out dinner at my new favorite Harlem spot.
Menuism
Authentic French Bistro in the heart of Harlem, on 125th street and Lenox avenue. Classic French Fare from Chef Thomas Obaton (favorites are homemade Saumon Fume, Tuna tartar, Boeuf Bourguignon, Bavette a l'echalotte). French bistro decor with touches of colonial design. Warm and friendly ambiance, impeccable staff.
Yelp
Tres Magnifique!
This restaurant is superb! I am so impressed with not only the friendliness of service, the quality of the food, but the ability to enjoy a multi-course meal (with wine!!!) for under $25!
I ordered from the lunch menu and was able to have an appetizer, entree, glass of wine, dessert, and a cappucino for $24.95. Everything was so artful and tasty. The service was friendly and professional. The owners and management are present to ensure a wonderful experience from start to finish. The decor is a mix of the traditional and the contemporary all with the perfect warm lighting. The ambience was light and cozy with great music at a volume that allows you to converse comfortably.
I highly recommend this restaurant not only for lunch, but for dinner as well. There is a full bar with an excellent selection wines and cocktails. Don't waste another second and patronize this gem. This restaurant is just what Harlem residents have been looking for!
Daily News
If you watch the faces coming into Chez Lucienne in Harlem, you see a look of surprise over and over again. It's also a sense of déjà vu — the feeling that you've just stumbled into a place where you want to order a drink and look at the menu. French music, French accents — not the Inspector Clouseau type — bow ties, homemade terrines and honest bistro prices.
Chez Lucienne is a place that's meant to be affordable. Pâté, six dollars.
House-smoked salmon, nine. Skirt steak entree, 16. What's the catch? There's only one. Silly drinks — the Moulin Rouge, the Blue Ocean, the White Cosmo and the Rose Martini.
They're pushing the house cocktails and they're not worth drinking. Besides, it's a French bistro, so order wine. The lineage behind Chez Lucienne is pretty distinguished. Owner Jerome Bougherdani worked at Le Bernardin and Daniel. He fell in love with Harlem 15 years ago. The chef, Thomas Obaton, is from Lyon, France, and cooked with Guy Savoy in Paris. He's serving really simple bistro classics — chicken fricassee, salade nicoise and a foie gras terrine.
And it's the simple things that work best here. How do you know what isn't simple? It's drowning in sauce. That includes the beef bourguignon, the fricassee in chasseur sauce, and the scallops in an orange reduction sauce. So what does that leave you with? Lots.
One of my favorites is the sautéed skirt steak. At Chez Lucienne, the skirt steak has a texture more like filet mignon, but with all the skirt steak's flavor. And the foie gras terrine was as good as a foie gras terrine should be. What made it special were the accompanying Anjou pears, steeped in red wine. They enliven the seriousness of the foie gras itself.
On this mostly French menu, there are a few immigrants, like the tuna tartare.
Listen to this list of ingredients: wasabi-spiked caviar, cucumber, red pepper puree, and parmesan cheese crisps. How are they supposed to get along? This is one of the dishes that give you a glimpse into the way a creative chef thinks. He finds a kind of taste-logic where you wouldn't think it exists. This is also the kind of appetizer that makes the $15 Burger du Chef and the leek and potato soup taste drab.
Chez Lucienne is a really good find. And chef Obaton is asking to be taken seriously. So let's.
Transracial
Uptown Frenchman Thomas Obaton is the chef behind the stoves at Chez Lucienne, the first fancy French bistro to open in Harlem — how Transracial! Opened last week, the 60-seat eatery comes courtesy of Obaton and a pair of 'Daniel' alums, Matthew Tivy and Jerome Bougherdani. Dishes are tres Rive Gauche — beef bourguignonne to calf liver croquettes and the indulgent dessert above — all enjoyed amid elegant power-blue banquettes.